Saint-Rémy market in front of the town hall — On Place Jules-Pellissier, the market awnings stand out in front of the town hall and its clock © VF

An outing in the Alpilles

The Wednesday Market in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

On Wednesday mornings, the stalls spread across the squares and streets of central Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. They draw a colourful route around the collegiate church and the town hall.

In front of the collegiate church, the market takes its place

Every Wednesday morning, the large Provençal market unfolds through central Saint-Rémy and Place de la République. Often regarded as the largest market in the Alpilles, it can bring together up to 300 stallholders in summer. The portico and bell tower of Saint Martin’s collegiate church rise above the awnings and serve as landmarks at the heart of the activity.

Saint-Rémy market in front of Saint Martin’s collegiate church — The portico and bell tower of Saint Martin’s appear above the awnings at the heart of the market © VF

From the square, the market continues into the neighbouring streets. Passages narrow in front of the busiest stalls, then open out around a fountain or beneath the plane trees. As the walk unfolds, the market traces a route through the old town.

A fountain beneath the plane trees at Saint-Rémy market — The fountain on Place Favier appears beneath the plane trees of the old town © VF

Saint-Rémy disappears between awnings and baskets

In the side streets, the market blurs the perspectives. A fountain emerges behind the stands, a façade closes the axis and the plane-tree foliage announces a square.

Hanging baskets, woven bags and brightly coloured fabrics add their textures and shades to Saint-Rémy’s familiar landmarks for a few hours.

Baskets and clothes along an aisle of Saint-Rémy market — Baskets and colourful fabrics line the passage through the busy, shaded streets © VF

From the plain’s produce to the Alpilles olive groves

On the stalls, seasonal produce recalls the agricultural plain north of Saint-Rémy. Around Graveson, Maillane and Eyragues, water from the Durance, distributed through a network of canals, irrigates a plain where market gardens and orchards grow side by side.

As the massif approaches, olive groves spread across the limestone soils of the Alpilles. They produce table olives and oils, some of which benefit from the AOP Huile d’olive de la vallée des Baux-de-Provence. Vineyards complete this agricultural landscape with red, rosé and white wines under the IGP Alpilles designation.

Olives in baskets at Saint-Rémy market — Olives recall the olive-growing landscape of the Alpilles, even on the market stalls © VF

From Place aux Herbes to today’s producers’ market

Trading has long been part of life in central Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. Before 1849, the present-day Place Favier was still known as Place aux Herbes, a reference to the market held there.

Fresh vegetables at Saint-Rémy market — Seasonal vegetables line the crates beneath the market parasols © VF

Today, the Wednesday market continues this trading tradition in the heart of the town. On Saturday morning, a smaller producers’ market devoted to food products showcases the produce of the Alpilles and the fertile plain north of the town.

Purple garlic, dried fruit and condiments at Saint-Rémy market — Purple garlic, dried fruit and condiments share a single stall © VF

From the market to the first Alpilles ridges

From central Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, the road heads south. After about two kilometres, it reaches the Antiques and the archaeological site of Glanum, at the foot of the Alpilles. It then climbs through the massif’s first limestone ridges towards Les Baux-de-Provence. Depending on the route, the day can continue to the Saint-Sixte chapel at Eygalières or the Daudet mill at Fontvieille.

A visit to the market can thus become the starting point for a day between Saint-Rémy’s old streets and the mineral landscapes surrounding the town.

Wickerwork on Place Favier near the Musée des Alpilles — On Place Favier, wickerwork stands in the shade near the Musée des Alpilles © VF

Practical information

Market days and parking in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

Wednesday market: All year round, Wednesdays from 8 am to 1 pm, on Place de la République and in the streets of the old town. The number of stallholders and the extent of the market vary with the season.
Saturday producers’ market: All year round, Saturdays from 8 am to 1 pm in the town centre. Smaller in scale, it focuses on food and seasonal produce.
Where to park?: Parking de la Libération has 438 free spaces, about a six-minute walk from the centre. Parking Aubanel, near the collège and the Petite Crau stadium, has 145 free spaces, about a thirteen-minute walk away.
Summer shuttle: In summer, a free shuttle links Parking Aubanel with the old town on Wednesdays from 9 am to 1 pm. As this is a seasonal service, check the dates before travelling.

Opening times and parking conditions may change. Check the tourist office information for the Wednesday market, the Saturday market listing, and the town’s pages on parking and the market shuttle.

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