The market in front of the town hall in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence — The market in front of the town hall, Place Jules-Pellissier. © VF

A getaway in the Alpilles

The Wednesday market in Rémy-de-Provence

Text and photographs by Vincent Flachaire

On Wednesday mornings, the market brings Saint-Rémy-de-Provence to life. From vegetable stalls to basket stands, shopping extends your visit through the streets and squares.

In front of Saint-Martin collegiate church

The market occupies Place de la République and the streets of the historic centre. In front of Saint-Martin collegiate church, stalls stand at the foot of the great portico. Above the parasols, the bell tower is a handy landmark as you browse the aisles.

Food stalls sit alongside clothing, household linen and accessories. The walk continues through the central streets. On Place Jules-Pellissier, the plane trees and market awnings offer glimpses of the town hall clock.

The Wednesday market in front of Saint-Martin collegiate church in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence — The stalls in front of Saint-Martin collegiate church. © VF

Shopping at the foot of the Alpilles

People come to the market for seasonal fruit and vegetables, cheese, honey and prepared food to take away. You can shop for your stay or put together a picnic before heading into the Alpilles. Producers and traders also sell herbs, spices and groceries.

Fresh vegetables at the market in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence — Crates of vegetables beneath the parasols. © VF

Olives and olive oil link the market to the olive groves around Saint-Rémy. Among the specialities of the Alpilles, the cracked olives of the Vallée des Baux-de-Provence are green olives prepared in brine and flavoured with fennel. This traditional product has protected designation of origin status (PDO).

Baskets of olives at the market in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence — Baskets of olives at the market. © VF

Purple garlic from Cavaillon, dried fruit and condiments complement the fresh produce. Oils and preserves also make purchases to take home from your stay.

Purple garlic, dried fruit and condiments at the market in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence — Purple garlic from Cavaillon and dried fruit. © VF

A large market in the old town

People also come to choose a basket, household linen or clothing. These stands mingle with the food stalls in the streets of the old town.

Baskets and clothing in an aisle of the market in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence — Baskets and clothing in the market aisles. © VF

In Saint-Rémy, the stalls occupy the very places visitors come to see. From the collegiate church to the town hall and then Place Favier, shopping follows the streets of the old town.

A fountain and market stalls beneath the trees in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence — The fountain on Place Favier, among the stalls. © VF

On Place Favier, the former name Place aux Herbes recalls the history of the market. The Musée des Alpilles opens onto the same square and can extend your visit.

A basketware stall near the Musée des Alpilles in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence — Basketware near the Musée des Alpilles, Place Favier. © VF

On Saturdays, a producers’ market

Saint-Rémy also holds a producers’ market on Saturday mornings. Smaller in scale, it is devoted to food. It offers another opportunity to shop in the town centre, alongside the large Wednesday market.

Continue your outing in Saint-Rémy and the Alpilles

After the market, the squares and narrow streets of the old town extend the walk. To the south, the Antiques of Saint-Rémy stand near Glanum, around two kilometres from the centre.

The day can continue in the Alpilles, towards Les Baux-de-Provence, Saint-Sixte chapel and the old village of Eygalières or Daudet’s windmill in Fontvieille.

Other Provençal markets

The Sunday market in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue follows the river quays and spreads into the old town. In Aix-en-Provence, the Place Richelme market takes place every morning.

Practical information

Market days and parking in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

The main Wednesday market: Every Wednesday throughout the year, from 8 am to 1 pm, on Place de la République and in the streets of the historic centre. The number of stalls and the extent of the market vary with the season.
Saturday producers’ market: Every Saturday throughout the year, from 8 am to 1 pm in the town centre. Smaller in scale, this market is devoted to food and seasonal produce.
Where to park: The Libération car park, where visitors pay according to municipal conditions, is around a six-minute walk from the centre. The Aubanel car park, near the secondary school and the Petite Crau stadium, is free and around a 13-minute walk away.
Summer shuttle: In summer, a free shuttle connects the Aubanel car park to the old town on Wednesdays from 9 am to 1 pm. As this is a seasonal service, check its operating dates before travelling.

Opening hours and parking conditions may change. Consult the tourist office information for the Wednesday market, the Saturday market listing and the town council’s pages on parking and the market shuttle.

Extend your stay

Stay in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

Discover guest houses in Saint-Rémy and the Alpilles.

These properties listed on the Portal are within 25 km as the crow flies of the location featured in this getaway. Visit their websites to plan your stay.