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The Sunday market beside the Sorgue in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
Stalls follow Quai Rouget-de-l’Isle in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.

A getaway in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

The Sunday market along the Sorgue

Text and photographs by

On Sunday morning, stalls line the Sorgue before spreading into the streets and squares of the old town. From baskets on the quays to flowers and fresh produce, the market leads to the collegiate church of Notre-Dame-des-Anges.

Along the quays, the market borders the Sorgue

The Sunday market begins beside the water. On Quais Jean-Jaurès and Rouget-de-l’Isle, stalls follow the branches of the Sorgue surrounding the old town. This gathering continues a long trading history: the Thursday market was established in 1596, when the town was under papal rule.

At the basket stall, baskets hang from the supports or sit beside the railing. Right next to them, the river remains visible beneath the branches. Further on, awnings and clothes rails draw closer: as the morning progresses, the aisle fills and walking slows.

Basket stall on a quay in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue with the Sorgue below
The basket stall beside the Sorgue.

Fruit, flowers and baskets among the stalls

Shaded aisle of the Sunday market between hat and melon stalls in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
Beneath the plane trees, the aisle narrows between the stalls.

Beneath the awnings, crates of fruit line the passage. Chalkboards announce prices; the colours of the fruit stand out against the shade. The market combines fresh produce with cheeses, cured meats and olives, as well as fabrics, hats and clothes.

Fruit stall beneath market awnings in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
Crates of fruit on a greengrocer’s stall.

Bouquets standing on the flower stall catch the attention of passers-by. Customers gather around the buckets and colourful bunches, while others continue between the stalls.

Bouquets and customers at a flower stall in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
Bouquets and customers at the flower stall.

From the waterside to the church square

Leaving the quays, stalls extend into the streets of the old town. Awnings hide the lower façades, but the collegiate church’s doorway appears above the clothes rails. The market crosses the town without obscuring all its landmarks.

Doorway of Notre-Dame-des-Anges collegiate church behind stalls in an old town street
The collegiate church doorway above the market awnings.

The street opens onto Place de la Liberté, at the foot of Notre-Dame-des-Anges. Stalls spread in front of the church façade and continue into neighbouring streets. After the narrow passages, the square gives more room to take in the stalls and surrounding houses.

Façade of Notre-Dame-des-Anges collegiate church above the market stalls
The market in front of Notre-Dame-des-Anges, Place de la Liberté.

The Sorgue reappears between the stalls

Around a bend in the streets, a canal and then the quays lead back to the Sorgue. Between two stalls, an opening reveals the current; from a bridge, the banks and trees come back into view. Water returns to the walk after the passage through the old town.

On Sundays, the outing can also continue to the antiques market on Avenue des Quatre-Otages. This is a separate market devoted to antiques and old objects, distinct from the fruit, flower and clothing stalls explored here.

A floating market inspired by Bangkok

In L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, the market sometimes leaves the quays for the river. After a trip to Thailand, René Légier had the idea of adapting Bangkok’s floating markets to the nègo-chin, the Sorgue’s traditional boats. During this summer event, fruit, vegetables and bouquets are loaded aboard, and traders meet the public gathered along the banks.

Flower-decorated boats and traders in front of spectators on the quays at the 2006 floating market
Nègo-chin boats at the floating market on the Sorgue in 2006.

Continue the outing along the Sorgue

After the market, the quays and canals lead to the water wheels of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, witnesses to its manufacturing past. Mills and workshops used the power of the current that now accompanies the walk.

Upstream from the town, the Partage des Eaux shows where the Sorgue divides into two branches. Further on, Fontaine-de-Vaucluse brings you back to the river at the foot of its cliff.

Practical information

Visiting the market in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

Days and location
Thursday and Sunday mornings, year-round, except 1 January and 25 December. The larger Sunday market occupies the southern quays and the streets and squares of the old town.
Sunday antiques market
A separate event from the Provençal market, on Avenue des Quatre-Otages. The stalls are devoted to antiques and old objects.
Crowds
Sundays are very busy in summer, particularly in mid-morning. The Thursday market is smaller.
Parking
Car parks and their conditions of use are shown on the parking plan published by the town council. The centre is explored on foot between the quays and squares.
Floating market
A summer event distinct from the weekly market. The tourist office announces the date and arrangements for the next edition.

Local information: Provençal market · Sunday antiques market · parking · floating market. Check the official listings for current opening times.

Extend your stay

Bed and breakfasts around L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

These properties listed on the Portal are within 25 km as the crow flies of the location featured in this getaway. Visit their websites to plan your stay.

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