The Place Richelme market beneath plane trees, among the stalls and café terraces of old Aix — The market on Place Richelme in Aix-en-Provence.

A getaway in Aix-en-Provence

Place Richelme, a daily market in central Aix-en-Provence

Text and photographs by Vincent Flachaire

Every morning, fruit and vegetable stalls fill Place Richelme beneath the plane trees. A short walk from the town hall, shopping at the market can be followed by a coffee on a café terrace and a walk through the old town.

A market every morning

The market on Place Richelme runs from Monday to Sunday. People come to buy fresh produce or browse the stalls before exploring the old town, even outside Aix-en-Provence’s main market days. On this small square, the stands share the space with trees and café terraces.

The fruit and vegetables change with the seasons. Depending on the stalls, you may also find eggs, goat’s cheese, olive oil, honey, garlic and herbs. Ask the sellers where their produce comes from: it is a chance to talk about the harvest and choose what to take home.

Fruit and vegetable stall beneath parasols at the Place Richelme market in Aix-en-Provence — Fruit and vegetables at the Place Richelme market.

The main market days

On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, other markets fill the streets and squares of the centre. Food stalls extend to the Places Comtales, while clothing, crafts and antiques can be found along the Cours Mirabeau and elsewhere. The flower market takes place in front of the town hall.

From Place aux Herbes to Richelme

The former Place aux Herbes took its name from the trade in market produce behind the grain hall.

The square was renamed Richelme in the 1930s. It honours Marie-Rose Richelme, a local benefactor and niece of the tenor Louis-Ferdinand Richelme.

Market stalls and shoppers on Place Richelme in front of the grain hall façade in Aix-en-Provence — The market in front of the grain hall.

A wild boar from Florence

Amid the stalls and terraces, the Fontaine du Sanglier reproduces a work by the Florentine sculptor Pietro Tacca. It was only installed on the square in the 1980s.

Water flows from the animal’s snout. Look around its feet too: snakes, turtles and snails decorate the basin.

The grain hall and the town hall

The grain hall separates Richelme from Place de l’Hôtel-de-Ville. Built from 1754 onwards, it has two figures sculpted by Jean-Pancrace Chastel on its pediment: the Rhône and the Durance, accompanied by agricultural produce. The decoration links the rivers to the fertility of the land that supplied the city.

On Place de l’Hôtel-de-Ville, you can stand back to take in the town hall façade and the clock tower. In the centre, the fountain of 1755 reuses a Roman column.

Place de l’Hôtel-de-Ville in Aix-en-Provence, with the clock tower and stalls beneath parasols — Place de l’Hôtel-de-Ville, next to Richelme.

Place d’Albertas

Off Rue Espariat, Place d’Albertas opens up in front of the family’s mansion. In the eighteenth century, Henri d’Albertas bought the houses opposite his mansion and had them demolished to clear its surroundings. His son continued the creation of the square.

Around the fountain, façades and balconies form a square enclosed on three sides. You can pause here before continuing towards the Cours Mirabeau.

Central fountain and façades of Place d’Albertas in Aix-en-Provence — The fountain and façades of Place d’Albertas.

Continue on foot through the old town

From Richelme, walk towards the Cours Mirabeau past shops and the doors of historic mansions. On the other side of the avenue, the Four Dolphins Fountain stands at the heart of the Mazarin quarter.

Shopping lane with cafés and terraces in the historic centre of Aix-en-Provence near Richelme — A shopping street in the old town of Aix.

Other Provençal markets

The Friday market in Lourmarin spreads around the village and castle. In Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, the Wednesday market can be combined with a visit to the historic centre. The Sunday market in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue offers a walk along the quays and branches of the Sorgue.

Practical information

Visiting the Place Richelme market

Days and opening hours: The Richelme food market takes place every day except 1 January. The municipal market leaflet lists sales from 8.30 am to 1 pm for food markets. Check for changes during holidays or events.
The main market in the centre: Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings: food on the Places Comtales; clothing, crafts and antiques on the Cours Mirabeau and neighbouring streets and squares.
Flower market: Place de l’Hôtel-de-Ville on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays; Places Comtales on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays. Consult the markets listed by the tourist office for locations and temporary changes.
How long to allow: Allow half an hour to an hour for the stalls and a break on the square; longer if you continue towards the town hall, Albertas and the Cours Mirabeau.
Location and access: Place Richelme is in the pedestrianised historic centre, behind the grain hall and near the town hall. Walk there from the central car parks or after travelling in from a park-and-ride. Streets in the area include cobbled and paved surfaces.

To plan your stay: Aix-en-Provence tourist office.

Extend your stay

Guest houses around Aix-en-Provence to extend the getaway

These properties listed on the Portal are within 25 km as the crow flies of the location featured in this getaway. Visit their websites to plan your stay.