Crowds between the stalls beneath the plane trees at Lourmarin market — People walking between the stalls in the shade of the plane trees.

Getaway in the Luberon

Lourmarin’s Friday market in the shade of the plane trees

Text and photographs by Vincent Flachaire

On Friday mornings in Lourmarin, the market spreads out in the shade of the plane trees. From the stalls to the café terraces, the walk continues through the village lanes.

A summer Friday beneath the plane trees

On this Friday morning in July, local residents join visitors for shopping and a stroll. A few steps from the stalls, customers are already sitting on the café terraces.

In summer, Lourmarin market extends along Boulevard du Rayol and Avenue Raoul-Dautry, close to the village and the château.

Fruit and vegetable stalls beneath the plane trees at Lourmarin market — The stalls beneath the plane trees on a summer Friday morning in Lourmarin.

The stalls of Lourmarin market

Beneath the plane trees, the stalls form an almost unbroken line. Crates of fruit and vegetables stand beside cheeses, olives and charcuterie. Clothes hang at the edge of the awnings and baskets are stacked up: Friday shopping mingles with finds along the way. In the warmer months, the market can bring together up to 150 stallholders.

In July, progress along the aisle slows as the morning wears on. Someone stopping at a stall is enough to narrow the passage; at times you have to wait before moving on. Sunlight filters through the leaves, casting patches of light on the road.

Café terraces on Rue du Temple in Lourmarin on a market morning — A drink on a terrace in Lourmarin on market day © VF

From the stalls to the village lanes

The crowds gather at the market and on the café terraces. Just a few steps away, the village streets are almost empty. A few dresses and other items are displayed outside the shops; the narrow passages between the façades have a much quieter atmosphere.

A narrow lane in Lourmarin with shops and pale shutters — A lane and its shops, away from the market aisles.

A walk through Lourmarin can also take a literary turn. Henri Bosco discovered the village in 1922 and later bought a small country house there; Albert Camus bought a house in 1958. Both are buried in the village cemetery.

Lingering on the terraces of Rue du Temple

On Rue du Temple, café tables line the passage. Beneath awnings and parasols, the terraces are full. People put down their shopping to have a drink, while others continue walking just a few metres from the chairs.

Café terraces and passers-by on Rue du Temple in Lourmarin — The terraces of Rue du Temple, after the morning’s shopping.

The Protestant church and the château, facing the village

From the edge of the village, the Protestant church stands out in front of the château, across the meadow. The château combines a late 15th-century section with a 16th-century Renaissance wing.

Lourmarin’s Protestant church in the foreground and the château behind — The Protestant church and the château of Lourmarin, opposite the village.

Continue exploring the Luberon

Away from the market, the vineyards offer a broader view of Lourmarin and the wooded slopes of the Luberon. To the north, the Combe de Lourmarin cuts a passage through the massif towards Bonnieux, on the other side.

Lourmarin beyond the vineyards at the foot of the wooded Luberon slopes — Lourmarin seen from the vineyards, at the foot of the Luberon.

To the east, Cucuron’s Étang basin and village lanes, Vaugines and Ansouis offer more villages to explore nearby. The Saturday morning market in Apt takes you back among the stalls in the streets of a town in the northern Luberon.

Further afield, visit the stalls of Place Richelme in Aix-en-Provence or the Sunday market in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.

Other markets and fairs in Lourmarin

The producers’ market, makers’ markets and antiques fairs offer other occasions to browse the stalls in Lourmarin. As the festive season approaches, the Christmas market brings together crafts and seasonal treats.

Practical information

Visiting Lourmarin market

Day, times and location: Every Friday morning throughout the year, from 8 am to 1 pm, on Boulevard du Rayol and Place Henri-Barthélemy. In July, during the busy visit shown in these photographs, stalls also occupied Avenue Raoul-Dautry.
Parking: The Cerisiers and Tennis car parks are open all year. Additional parking areas open according to demand, including P2, accessed from the road to Cucuron. Car parks and parking information, Lourmarin town hall.
Other markets and fairs: The producers’ market takes place on Tuesday late afternoons from April to October at La Fruitière Numérique. Makers’ markets and antiques fairs also take place during the year, notably on Place Henri-Barthélemy, which also hosts the Christmas market in December. Dates for each event are listed in the municipal events calendar.

To plan your visit: Lourmarin’s markets, town hall; the Friday market, Destination Luberon tourist office; opening times and admission prices for Lourmarin château.

Extend your stay

Bed and breakfasts around Lourmarin

Lourmarin, Cucuron, Vaugines, Ansouis and Lauris provide several bases for exploring the southern Luberon. The portal favours direct links to owners' websites, making it easier to compare locations and plan a stay.

These properties listed on the Portal are within 25 km as the crow flies of the location featured in this getaway. Visit their websites to plan your stay.