Hairpin bends in the Combe de Lourmarin — The winding road enters the Combe de Lourmarin from Bonnieux © VF

Getaway in the Luberon

The Combe de Lourmarin along the Aigue Brun

Text and photographs by Vincent Flachaire

In the Combe de Lourmarin, the road follows the limestone cliffs while the Aigue Brun flows along the valley floor. This passage links the two sides of the Luberon, between Lourmarin and Bonnieux.

A passage between the Petit and Grand Luberon

North of Lourmarin, the D943 runs beside plane trees before leaving the fields and the grounds around the château to enter the massif. The wooded slopes draw closer, cliffs rise above the road and the route follows the curves of the valley floor. Further on, the rock crops out just above the low walls.

The combe separates the Petit Luberon to the west from the Grand Luberon to the east. The Aigue Brun has carved a passage through the massif, following faults. Erosion has gradually cut through the layers of limestone and marl, opening this link between the two sides.

Limestone cliffs and the bed of the Aigue Brun beside the road in the Combe de Lourmarin — The road and the bed of the Aigue Brun beneath the limestone cliffs.

At the southern entrance, the former Bon Dieu quarry offers a closer look at these rocks. The layers are steeply tilted; a striated surface marks the movement of rock blocks along a fault.

The Aigue Brun beneath the cliffs

The river is often hidden from the road. Here and there it appears below the trees, amid a ribbon of vegetation denser than on the slopes. Poplars rise above the woods, grasses spread along the banks and cliffs overlook the valley.

The Aigue Brun and the valley’s vegetation beneath the cliffs of the Combe de Lourmarin — The Aigue Brun on the valley floor, beneath the cliffs and woods.

Beside the Aigue Brun, stones emerge between small pools. In July, the current dwindles in places to a trickle, leaving part of the riverbed exposed. Beneath the branches, green reflections from the leaves alternate with sunlight on the pebbles. The flow varies with the seasons: the river can rise rapidly during heavy autumn rain.

Low flow of the Aigue Brun between stones beneath the trees in July — In July, the water of the Aigue Brun winds between stones beneath the trees.

The Pont à coquille on the old track

Set back from the road, Bonnieux’s Pont à coquille crosses the Aigue Brun in a single arch. On one side, the stones of its vault extend into a fan-shaped arrangement resting above the rock. The date 1722 is inscribed on the bridge’s keystone.

Arch and fan-shaped stonework of Bonnieux’s Pont à coquille over the Aigue Brun — The fan-shaped stonework widens the approach to the bridge.

This shell-shaped structure widens the approach to the bridge in a confined space. It allowed the track to make an almost right-angle turn to join the old road from Buoux to Lourmarin. The arrangement of the stones thus accommodates the bend and the space available on the riverbank.

A few steps from the bridge, the trees hide the present road.

Salt caravans across the Luberon

In the 17th century, caravans of mules carried salt from the Étang de Berre to Apt. Some may have taken the neighbouring Combe des Cavaliers rather than the Combe de Lourmarin: a harder climb, but less exposed to brigands. Salt was a valuable commodity, needed to preserve food and feed livestock.

Towards Lourmarin, Bonnieux and the Calavon valley

At the southern end, the slopes open out and Lourmarin château appears before the cultivated landscapes of the Pays d’Aigues. The Friday market in Lourmarin offers a way to continue the morning beneath the plane trees, then on the café terraces and through the village lanes.

Lourmarin château at the southern entrance to the combe — Lourmarin château at the southern end of the combe.

To the north, the road to Bonnieux climbs above the combe. At the highest point of the road linking Bonnieux and Lourmarin, a turning leads to the Cedar Forest on the ridge of the Petit Luberon. Further down in the Calavon valley, the Pont Julien still carries the route of the Via Domitia over the river.

The Saturday morning market in Apt offers another stop, in the streets and squares of the old town.

Practical information

Exploring the Combe de Lourmarin

Road and stops: D943 from Lourmarin towards the Pays d’Apt. Former Bon Dieu quarry about 800 metres from the southern entrance. Parking in designated areas.
Walking towards Buoux: Upstream, the Aiguebrun valley extends the exploration towards Les Seguins. The walk linked below starts in the village of Buoux.
Access to trails: In summer, access to trails may be restricted according to the wildfire risk.

To plan your visit: the Bon Dieu quarry, Luberon Regional Nature Park; the Pont à coquille, Pays d’Apt Luberon tourist office; the Aiguebrun valley walk, Chemins des Parcs.

Extend your stay

Bed and breakfasts around Lourmarin and Bonnieux

Lourmarin, Bonnieux and the surrounding villages provide several bases for exploring both slopes of the Luberon and crossing the combe. The portal favours direct links to owners’ websites.

These properties listed on the Portal are within 25 km as the crow flies of the location featured in this getaway. Visit their websites to plan your stay.