Apt’s market in the streets of the old town — The market on rue des Marchands, beneath the Clock Tower.

A getaway in the Luberon

Saturday morning in Apt, the great Luberon market

Text and photographs by Vincent Flachaire

On Saturday mornings, Apt’s market fills the streets of the old town and shows the town at its liveliest.

A Saturday morning in the streets of Apt

In the Calavon valley, Apt draws people from the villages of the Luberon to its large Saturday market. Stalls fill the streets of the old town beneath the tall houses. Shops remain open behind the stands, while passers-by cross paths in the gaps between tables and clothes rails.

It is summer, and parasols cover the stalls. In the lanes, hats and hanging clothes line the passages. A façade, a clock face or an old doorway appears above the stands: the walk also reveals the town.

Summer fruit on the stalls of Apt’s market — Crates of fruit beneath the market parasols.

Across the squares and along the lanes

The market spreads through the streets and squares of the old town. Its usual route links place de la Bouquerie, rue des Marchands and place du Septier, then continues to cours Lauze-de-Perret. Narrow streets slow the pace; the squares offer more space between the houses.

This pattern of trade has a long history. Cloth and linen were once sold on the main street, while farm produce was sold in the squares. In the 17th century, the livestock market was held at either the Bouquerie gate or the Saignon gate, so that neither the upper nor the lower part of town was favoured.

Bunches and sachets of lavandin on a stall at Apt’s market — Lavandin in bunches and sachets on the stall.

Summer fruit, lavandin and market stalls

Summer fruit fills the crates. Lavandin is sold in bunches and sachets arranged among the baskets.

Apt is known for its candied fruit. The market brings together traders from different parts of southern France: food is sold alongside clothes, accessories and everyday goods.

Busy café terraces during Apt’s market — Café terraces among the market stalls.

A café stop in the middle of the market

Café tables stand just a few steps from the stalls. Beneath the parasols and awnings, customers have a drink while musicians play beside the wall. Behind the chairs, shoppers continue browsing the clothes stands and small paintings.

A market lane in Apt’s old town — Hats and clothes line the passage along a market lane.

The market opens onto the town hall square

At the end of the lanes, the market spreads across the large square in front of the town hall. Its façade rises above the stall canopies. After the narrow passages of the centre, the space opens out among trees and houses.

Bags and clothes on market stalls in the square in front of Apt’s town hall — Bag and clothing stalls in front of the town hall.

Crowds remain dense around the fruit and vegetable sellers. Shopping continues beneath the parasols, from crates of fruit to tables piled with garlic.

Shoppers and fruit stalls in the square in front of Apt’s town hall — Crowds between the fruit stalls and market parasols.

Garlic bulbs in the foreground of a fruit and vegetable stall at Apt’s market — Garlic bulbs at the edge of the stall beneath green parasols.

Continue exploring around Apt

Following the Calavon valley westwards, the Pont Julien and its three Roman arches reveal the route of the Via Domitia, which once served Apt. The road can then continue towards Bonnieux, Lacoste and Ménerbes.

North-west of Apt, Roussillon’s colourful façades and the Ochre Trail offer another walk. Further north, roads climb towards the Plateau d’Albion. For another market morning, Lourmarin’s stalls are open on Fridays, on the southern side of the Luberon.

Practical information

Visiting Apt’s market

Day and location: Saturday mornings throughout the year, in the streets and squares of Apt’s old town (84400). The usual route includes rue des Marchands, place du Septier and cours Lauze-de-Perret.
Parking: The Calavon and Charles-de-Gaulle car parks are among those close to the old town. The municipal parking map shows their locations.
Tuesday farmers’ market: Another market takes place every Tuesday morning throughout the year on cours Lauze-de-Perret. It brings together producers and is separate from the large Saturday market.
Local information: Apt’s market and the town map and places to explore, Pays d’Apt Luberon tourist office.

Extend your stay

Guest houses around Apt and Bonnieux to extend the getaway

These properties listed on the Portal are within 25 km as the crow flies of the location featured in this getaway. Visit their websites to plan your stay.