Portals of the former Mirabeau suspension bridge in front of the present road bridge — The old suspension bridge portals still frame the Durance crossing, with the present road bridge behind them.

A getaway in the Luberon

The Mirabeau Bridge spans the Durance at the gateway to the Luberon

Text and photographs by Vincent Flachaire

At the Canteperdrix gorge, the Durance narrows between limestone cliffs. Ferries, suspension bridges and a modern road bridge have successively served this crossing, linking the Luberon with the Pays d’Aix and Haute-Provence.

The Canteperdrix gorge, an eastern gateway to the Luberon

From the bridge, you can follow the channels of the Durance among gravel banks towards the narrow passage at Canteperdrix. Limestone cliffs flank the river here. On the right bank, they mark the eastern end of the Grand Luberon; across the water, the countryside around Jouques leads towards the Pays d’Aix and Sainte-Victoire mountain. Upstream, the valley continues towards Manosque, Haute-Provence and the roads to the Verdon.

This crossing serves the Luberon and connects the roads of the Rhône valley with those leading to Aix and the Alps. For travellers and goods, crossing the Durance long meant adapting to changing currents and a shifting riverbed.

Channels of the Durance and gravel banks in the Canteperdrix gorge — The Durance branches around gravel banks before narrowing in the Canteperdrix gorge.

Crossing the Durance before the bridges

An old road from Aix-en-Provence to Riez already passed through the gorge. From the first half of the 13th century, cable ferries carried people across. A boat attached to a cable used the current to reach the opposite bank. The ferryman had to adjust the crossing to the water level and the position of the channel.

The Durance was much less predictable than it is today. Its channels shifted across a broad gravel bed, and rising water could halt traffic. Above the old crossing, the chapel of Sainte-Madeleine overlooked the boats and their passengers.

The first documented attempt to build a bridge dates from the 15th century. Successive structures in the gorge were wholly or partly destroyed by floods in 1440, 1635, 1843 and 1881. Bridges provided a more regular connection than the ferry, but remained vulnerable to this Alpine river.

The suspension bridges and their surviving portals

After several proposals in the early 19th century, a first suspension bridge was built between 1832 and 1835. Swept away by the great flood of 2 November 1843, it was rebuilt from 1845. Completed in 1847, the new structure spanned around 150 metres across the Durance without intermediate supports in the riverbed. Further damage followed in the flood of 1881.

The two neo-Romanesque portals survive from this 19th-century bridge. A large round arch forms a gateway between two massive towers pierced by tall, narrow openings. Small arcades and rows of corbels decorate the upper sections. The suspension cables were anchored to these substantial masonry structures, protected as historic monuments since 6 July 1988.

Front view of a neo-Romanesque portal at Mirabeau, with the opposite portal visible through its arch — The portal on the opposite bank appears through the arch of the first.

From the Mirabeau bank, you can line up the two arches and trace the course of the old crossing. The deck that linked them became unsuitable for road traffic and was taken out of use, then dismantled after its replacement. A different bridge, built in 1935, was destroyed during the Second World War.

The 1935 bridge, the war and today’s crossing

Completed in 1935, the new bridge crossed the river in a single span. Its two reinforced-concrete pylons, 22 metres high, carried sculptures and reliefs by Antoine Sartorio representing the four nearby departments.

In August 1944, Allied aircraft tried to cut this bridge to slow the German retreat. After several unsuccessful bombing raids, Resistance fighters blew it up on 17 August. An American pontoon bridge was installed three days later, and the permanent bridge was rebuilt in 1947. Growing road traffic eventually led to its replacement by the present bridge, opened in 1990.

The chapel of Sainte-Madeleine on a spur above the Durance — The chapel of Sainte-Madeleine overlooks the old crossing from a spur on the Mirabeau bank.

The chapel of Sainte-Madeleine above the crossing

Downstream from the bridge, on the right bank, the chapel of Sainte-Madeleine stands on a small rocky spur above the Durance. Its plain masonry, east end and bell gable with two openings stand out among the oaks. The Romanesque building is clearly visible from the area around the bridge, above the gravel bed.

The chapel was already here before the suspension bridges, when travellers crossed by ferry. Below it, the river and the entrance to the gorge remain in open view. A rocky path lined with oaks leads towards its façade; closer up, you can make out the stonework and the openings of the bell gable.

Stone façade and bell gable with two openings at the chapel of Sainte-Madeleine — The bell gable and stone façade stand at the end of a rocky path lined with oaks.

Mirabeau and the fountain in Manon des sources

A visit to the bridge can continue in the village of Mirabeau, around the Place de la Fontaine. In 1985, Claude Berri filmed scenes here for Jean de Florette and Manon des sources, his adaptations of Marcel Pagnol’s work, released the following year. Beneath the stone façades, the fountain retains its circular basin and tall column.

The limestone deposits built up beneath its carved figures were removed for filming. The statue of Manon sitting on the rim, her feet dangling, is a more recent addition: this work by Jean-Jacques Mancardi was unveiled in July 2018.

Mirabeau’s circular fountain and statue of Manon seated on its rim, in front of stone façades — Mirabeau’s fountain, a filming location for Manon des sources, and the statue of Manon added in 2018.

From Mirabeau to the Pays d’Aix along the Durance valley

To continue through the villages of the southern Luberon, head towards Cucuron and its Étang basin, then Lourmarin. The Combe de Lourmarin then provides a route across the massif to its northern side.

Following the Durance valley upstream brings you to Manosque and Haute-Provence. On the opposite bank, Jouques leads towards the Pays d’Aix. You can extend the outing to Vauvenargues, at the foot of Sainte-Victoire’s northern slopes. The bridge makes a useful stop on a journey towards the Alps or a day out in the Luberon.

Practical information

Planning a visit to the Mirabeau bridge

Time to allow: Allow around thirty minutes to look at the old portals, the present bridge and the gorge. Allow longer if you wish to cross on foot and enjoy the views from the opposite bank.
Parking and viewpoint: The Luberon Regional Nature Park indicates a car park on the right bank, before the bridge. The viewpoint overlooking the Mirabeau geological fold is on the left bank, reached by walking across the bridge. Use the pavement and take care around traffic.
What to bring: The site is exposed to the sun and beside a working road. Bring water and comfortable shoes, and follow the paths and signs on site.

To plan your visit, see the Luberon Regional Nature Park’s information on the Mirabeau viewpoint.

Extend your stay

Guest houses between the Luberon and the Pays d’Aix

The Mirabeau Bridge stands on the route linking the Luberon, the Durance valley and the Pays d’Aix. A stay near Lourmarin gives access to the southern side of the range, while Aix-en-Provence provides a base for continuing towards Jouques and the landscapes of the Durance.

These properties listed on the Portal are within 25 km as the crow flies of the location featured in this getaway. Visit their websites to plan your stay.