Wide track beneath the cedars of the Petit Luberon — A broad track enters the tall cedars on the summit plateau of the Petit Luberon © VF

Getaway in the Luberon

The Cedar Forest on the Petit Luberon ridge

Text and photographs by Vincent Flachaire

Above Bonnieux and Lacoste, tall cedars shade the Petit Luberon ridge. At the forest edge, the woodland gives way to dry grassland and views over the Calavon and Durance valleys.

Seeds from the Atlas Mountains on the Luberon ridges

Reforestation began in 1861 on the summit plateau of the Petit Luberon, at around 700 metres above sea level. Foresters and local villagers sowed seeds from the Algerian Atlas in holes dug by hand. In the early years, success was uneven on these limestone soils exposed to wind and drought.

Around 1920, the first trees began producing seeds. A second generation grew in the spaces between the older trees. The oldest cedars often have widely spreading branches; their descendants, growing close together in the forest, have taller, straighter trunks.

Cedar branches seen from the foot of the tree — Cedar branches spread above the path.

Walking beneath the tall cedars

From the car park, the broad track leads between the trunks. Walkers and cyclists follow it beneath branches that cover part of the route. Russet needles carpet the ground; shafts of sunlight illuminate the grasses and young trees along the edges.

The Chemin des Cèdres leaves this broad avenue and winds through the woodland. This 1.2-kilometre accessible loop has five discovery areas about trees, woodland life and human activities. The trail is accessible to people with disabilities. Other paths lead from the same area towards the forest edges and ridges.

Surfaced woodland trail in the Cedar Forest — The Chemin des Cèdres winds through the woodland.

1952: fire and the spread of the cedar forest

In July 1952, a major fire ravaged the Petit Luberon for several days. The heart of the cedar forest was spared, while the surrounding woods burned. Seeds from the surviving cedars then found open ground in which to germinate: a new generation took root and extended the forest. Some old trees still bear traces of the fire.

A forest managed for its timber

The communal cedar forests of Bonnieux, Lacoste and Ménerbes are managed by the Office national des forêts, France’s national forestry agency. Thinning gives the remaining trees more space and provides timber used particularly in joinery and construction. The forest track, built in 1970, facilitates timber extraction and access for firefighters.

Forest track beneath spreading cedar branches, with two cyclists in the distance — The forest track beneath the tiered branches of the cedars.

From woodland to open ridge landscapes

On the northern slope, gaps in the vegetation reveal the farmland of the Calavon valley, the village of Lacoste and the surrounding hills. On the horizon, Mont Ventoux stands out behind the Monts de Vaucluse.

View towards Lacoste, the Calavon valley and Mont Ventoux — Lacoste and the Calavon valley, with Mont Ventoux on the horizon.

On the ridge, the track also crosses areas of white limestone, dry grassland and garrigue. Before the cedars were sown, these uplands were grazed. Grazing and scrub clearance keep these habitats open. They support different plants and animals from those of the woodland and provide hunting grounds for birds of prey from the neighbouring cliffs.

Track along the Petit Luberon ridge between limestone and garrigue — On the ridge, the track crosses dry grassland and garrigue.

To the south, the Portalas routes lead to a viewpoint over the Durance valley, Sainte-Victoire and the Alpilles. A natural arch opens below the ridge. The approach crosses more uneven ground than the accessible Chemin des Cèdres loop.

Continue towards Bonnieux and Lourmarin

On the way back, the Route des Cèdres joins the D36 at the highest point of the road between Bonnieux and Lourmarin. To the north lie the hillside houses of Bonnieux, then the Calavon valley, where Pont Julien carries the ancient Via Domitia across the river. Lacoste stands on a neighbouring hill.

To the south, the Combe de Lourmarin crosses the Luberon alongside the Aigue Brun. It emerges near the château and village of Lourmarin, where the Friday market fills the avenues beneath the plane trees.

Practical information

Planning a walk in the Cedar Forest

Access and parking: Take the Route des Cèdres from the highest point of the D36 between Bonnieux and Lourmarin. The car park is at the start of the trails, around eight kilometres from Bonnieux.
Routes: Chemin des Cèdres: accessible 1.2 km loop, around 30 minutes excluding stops, suitable for people with disabilities. The Portalas routes are separate and are not wheelchair-accessible.
Trail access: From March to September, keep to the marked trails. In summer, the opening of the site and routes depends on access restrictions in the hills.

To plan your visit: Chemin des Cèdres, Chemins des Parcs; Portalas viewpoints, Luberon Regional Nature Park; access to the Vaucluse hills.

Extend your stay

Bed and breakfasts around Bonnieux and Lourmarin for exploring the Luberon

The Route des Cèdres branches off at the highest point of the road between Bonnieux and Lourmarin. Both villages and the area around Lacoste make convenient bases for exploring the forest and ridges of the Petit Luberon. The portal favours direct links to owners’ websites.

These properties listed on the Portal are within 25 km as the crow flies of the location featured in this getaway. Visit their websites to plan your stay.