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The Étang basin in Cucuron between two rows of plane trees
The Étang basin beneath Cucuron’s plane trees.

A getaway in the Luberon

Cucuron, from the Étang basin to the Saint-Michel keep

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In Cucuron, plane trees are reflected in the Étang basin. From there, the lanes climb towards the Saint-Michel keep, overlooking the village rooftops at the foot of the Grand Luberon.

The Étang basin, a starting point for exploring Cucuron

This large basin, 61 metres long and 13 metres wide, occupies a square lined with houses. Two rows of plane trees follow its banks. Beneath the trees, beside the water, the benches and café terraces are pleasant places to relax.

On Tuesday mornings, market stalls fill the square and spread towards the Étang gateway. The streets leading away from the basin climb to the older quarters above.

Plane trees reflected in the Étang basin in Cucuron
The plane trees, most of them planted in 1813, are reflected in the basin.

A water reservoir for the village mills

Recorded as early as 1403, the reservoir was purchased by the municipality in 1515. Pipes brought water from springs in the Luberon; it watered livestock and powered two flour mills downstream.

After the mills disappeared in the 19th century, the reservoir was reduced to the size of today’s basin and turned into an ornamental pool. Plane trees and café terraces now line this place for strolling, protected as a scenic site since 1954.

The Étang gateway in Cucuron, beneath the plane trees between the basin square and the old streets.
The Étang gateway links the basin square to Cucuron’s old streets.

The gateways and lanes of old Cucuron

The Étang gateway leads into the village, where the spaces become narrower.

This gateway belonged to the 16th-century fortifications, which protected Cucuron behind ramparts and a dry moat. A drawbridge controlled the entrance: the openings for its chains are still visible. Four gateways and six towers once defended the village.

Façades of the Maison des Consuls in Cucuron, with a Virgin and Child in a corner niche.
The Maison des Consuls and its carved Virgin and Child on the street corner.

At the junction of rue du Portail de l’Étang and rue de l’Église, the Maison des Consuls has two 17th-century façades. A niche holds a carved Virgin and Child attributed to Bernus de Mazan.

The clock tower above the Revelin gateway

The pointed gateway, clock face and bell turret of Cucuron’s clock tower.
The clock face and bell turret rise above the Revelin gateway.

We reach the clock tower, built in 1541 above the old Revelin gateway. This pointed arch belonged to the second medieval enclosure, dating from the 13th century: Cucuron had by then expanded beyond its original core around Saint-Michel castle.

Below the clock face, the passage opens onto a narrow street. The bell turret rises above the façades and remains visible on the climb towards the keep.

The house known as the Maison de la Reine Jeanne dates from the late 15th century. This aristocratic residence is distinguished by its stair turret and a small chamfered window on the second floor.

The Maison de la Reine Jeanne in Cucuron, with its vaulted passage, stair turret and chamfered window.
The vaulted passage beneath the stair turret of the Maison de la Reine Jeanne.

The Saint-Michel keep above Cucuron’s rooftops

On the hill, the Saint-Michel keep is the main surviving part of the old castle. Its tower, flanked by a spiral staircase added in the 16th century, stands on rock above the houses on the slopes below.

On 24 March 1889, Élise de Barlet sold the tower to the municipality of Cucuron for a symbolic franc, on one condition: that it should never be sold or demolished.

The stone tower of the Saint-Michel keep on its rocky base in Cucuron.
The Saint-Michel keep, a surviving part of Cucuron’s old castle.

From near the keep, the view takes in the village rooftops, the clock tower and the church. The wooded slopes of the Grand Luberon extend to the north. These streets and rooftops featured in Le Hussard sur le toit, directed by Jean-Paul Rappeneau and released in 1995.

Cucuron’s rooftops seen from near the Saint-Michel keep, with the Süs Pous tower in the distance and the clock tower on the right.
Cucuron’s rooftops from the Saint-Michel keep; the Süs Pous tower stands at the far end of the village.

Notre-Dame-de-Beaulieu

Descending from the keep, rue de l’Église leads to Notre-Dame-de-Beaulieu. It passes the Marc Deydier museum, housed in the Hôtel de Bouliers, with its archaeological and ethnographic collections.

The nave of Notre-Dame-de-Beaulieu dates from the late 13th century. Its pointed barrel vaults reflect the Provençal Romanesque tradition, retained despite extensions to the chancel in the 16th century.

A narrow street leading to the doorway of Notre-Dame-de-Beaulieu church in Cucuron.
The façade of Notre-Dame-de-Beaulieu closes the view along the street.

Inside, the 18th-century high altarpiece features a relief of the Assumption of the Virgin attributed to Pierre Puget. The organ, built by Pierre Duges in 1787, reuses parts of an earlier instrument.

Saint Tulle’s chapel houses a large wooden altarpiece from the early 18th century. It was purchased during the French Revolution from a former convent in Aix-en-Provence. The church also preserves the reliquary bust of Saint Tulle, Cucuron’s patron saint, alongside those of Saint Cyr and Saint Consorce.

The plague of 1720–1721 profoundly affected Cucuron: about 800 inhabitants died, more than a third of the population. The village never regained its pre-epidemic population. The Mai de Sainte-Tulle, celebrated each year outside Notre-Dame-de-Beaulieu, keeps alive the memory of the vow made by the inhabitants during the epidemic.

The Süs Pous tower at the far end of the village

At the other end of the old village stands the Süs Pous tower, also known as the Citadel tower. Built in 1542 to strengthen the ramparts, it became part of a citadel defending Cucuron.

The round Süs Pous tower and stone rampart in Cucuron.
The Süs Pous tower and the adjoining rampart.

From the foot of the tower, the Saint-Michel keep stands opposite, above the rooftops. The clock tower rises on the left.

Cucuron’s rooftops seen from near the Süs Pous tower, with the clock tower on the left and the Saint-Michel keep in the centre.
Cucuron’s rooftops and the Saint-Michel keep from near the Süs Pous tower.

Continue exploring the southern Luberon

At the foot of the Grand Luberon, roads leave Cucuron through vineyards, olive groves and farmland. They lead to Vaugines, Ansouis and Lourmarin. Lourmarin’s Friday morning market fills the village streets and squares.

To continue towards the Durance, the Mirabeau bridge and its neo-Romanesque portals offer a stop beside the river. On the other bank, the lanes and fountains of Jouques extend the route into the Pays d’Aix.

Practical information

Exploring Cucuron on foot

Starting point and route
Place de l’Étang in Cucuron (84160). The lanes of the old centre climb towards the clock tower and Saint-Michel keep, then continue to the Süs Pous tower; some have steps.
Suggested duration
Allow around 1½ to 2 hours for the basin, lanes and the outside of the monuments, excluding indoor visits and long stops.
Parking
The municipality lists car parks at the Étang, on route de Vaugines and at La Ferrage, among others. The municipal parking list gives their locations and capacities.
Markets
The weekly market takes place every Tuesday morning throughout the year. The town hall also lists a producers’ market on Thursdays from May to September, 3.30 pm to 7 pm, on place de l’Étang: Cucuron’s markets.
Saint-Michel keep
The walk described passes around the keep. The tourist office states that its upper terrace is closed to the public.
Mai de Sainte-Tulle
The procession commemorating the plague of 1720–1721 takes place on the Saturday after 21 May outside Notre-Dame-de-Beaulieu church. The Mai de Sainte-Tulle and the plague of 1720–1721 in Cucuron, Cucuron town hall.
Heritage and visits
Notre-Dame-de-Beaulieu church has been listed as a historic monument since 1961. Cucuron’s heritage trail and visitor information from Sud Luberon tourist office.

Extend your stay

Guest houses around Cucuron to extend the getaway

Around Cucuron, Lourmarin, Vaugines and Ansouis, the southern Luberon lends itself to a guest house stay between villages, vineyards, small roads and shaded terraces. The portal favours direct links to owners' websites, so you can compare atmospheres and prepare a stay close to the territory.

These properties listed on the Portal are within 25 km as the crow flies of the location featured in this getaway. Visit their websites to plan your stay.

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