Roussillon, a visit to the ochre village

Steps, lanes and squares in Roussillon

The climb through the old village follows shopping streets, narrow passages and steps. Shops and galleries alternate with the doors of houses; here and there, a gap between two façades reveals the surrounding hills.

Place de la Mairie is a place to pause at a café terrace before continuing towards the belfry and the old fortified centre. There are many visitors during the holiday season. On Thursday mornings, the market brings a different bustle to the village.

The belfry, once a gateway to the castrum

Above the square, the belfry comes into view along the narrow street. Its base preserves the passage of a former gateway to the castrum. Remodelled in the 19th century as a bell tower serving the church, it marks the entrance to Roussillon’s old fortified centre.

The former defensive gateway now tells the time and rings the bells. To the left, Rue de la Bistourle follows the old wall walk that linked two towers in the ramparts. This passage recalls the walls that once protected the upper village.

Saint-Michel church, inside the old fortified centre

Beyond the belfry, the lane leads to Saint-Michel church, within the former fortifications. Romanesque in origin, the building is documented from the 12th century and has been altered several times; its present façade dates from the 17th century.

Inside, the baptismal font made in 1791 by the Roussillon sculptor Alexis Poitevin is topped by a canopy that shelters the basin. This listed ensemble is worth a look when the church is open. A figure of Christ on the cross by the same artist is also preserved in the building.

The panorama from the Castrum rock

The Castrum rock has an orientation table at the highest point in Roussillon. Beyond the rooftops, the view extends over the valley and wooded hills. To the north, the Monts de Vaucluse mark the horizon, with Mont Ventoux rising behind them on a clear day.

A legend also links this rock to Lady Sermonde. After discovering that her husband had made her eat her lover’s heart, she is said to have thrown herself from the Castrum. According to the tale, her blood gave the earth of Roussillon its red colour.

Looking towards the Ochre Trail, part of a coloured cliff appears behind the houses. From this high point, the walk can descend to the viewpoint near the trail entrance: here the village skyline comes back into view, with the church and belfry above the rooftops.

Laurence Wylie, Roussillon under the name Peyrane

In 1950–1951, the American anthropologist Laurence Wylie settled in Roussillon with his family to study everyday life. In Village in the Vaucluse, published in 1957 and translated into French as Un village du Vaucluse, he calls the village Peyrane. Relations between residents, school and the habits of local life become the subjects of his research.

Returning in the 1980s, he describes specific changes: the old school playground has become a car park, and the canteen has been enlarged to host exhibitions. His observations show how village buildings found new uses as tourism developed.

Roussillon, a stop on the roads around Apt

To the west, Goult and Gordes offer further hilltop villages to explore. Towards Apt, Gargas and Rustrel reveal other landscapes and remains of ochre quarrying.

The market in Apt, on Saturday mornings, is another stop for discovering local produce. Spread these outings over several days to leave time for walks and visits.