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Canal de la Fontaine lined with café terraces beneath plane trees in central Goudargues
Two rows of café terraces follow the canal beneath the canopy of plane trees. © VF

Cèze valley

Goudargues Along the Canal de la Fontaine

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In Goudargues, plane trees shade the Canal de la Fontaine. Café terraces line the water, a short walk from the washhouse and former abbey, in the Cèze valley.

The quays of La Fontaine beneath the plane trees

In the Cèze valley, the centre of Goudargues is arranged around the quays of La Fontaine. Small bridges link the two banks, lined with houses, cafés and restaurants. Tables stand beside the canal, beneath the branches of the plane trees.

Planted in 1821, these trees form a canopy above the water. Their trunks and the façades are reflected in the canal, whose quays have earned Goudargues the nickname “little Venice of the Gard”. In July, parasols and café terraces fill the banks; on Wednesday mornings, the market also brings life to the village centre.

View along the Canal de la Fontaine, lined with plane trees and terraces in Goudargues
The view follows the canal along the shaded quays. © VF

La Fontaine, a spring channelled by the monks

The canal is fed by a natural spring, La Fontaine, behind the school, near the place des Sources. Discoveries of a villa and baths nearby show that the site was occupied as early as the 3rd century.

In the Middle Ages, Benedictine monks channelled this water to drain marshy ground, irrigate crops and power oil and grain mills.

The waterwheel at the end of the quays

At the end of the quays, the canal widens before turning towards the avenue de l’Écluse. A waterwheel once served to water the village’s kitchen gardens.

Waterwheel in the shade of the trees where the Canal de la Fontaine widens in Goudargues
The waterwheel on the bank of the canal, at the end of the quays. © VF

The washhouse and its frog

Near the former abbey, a broad roof supported by columns shelters the washhouse. The pool takes up almost all the covered space; at the water’s edge, a cast-iron frog faces inwards. Washerwomen came here to wash linen and exchange village news.

Opposite stand the former Notre-Dame de Caseneuve Chapel, now a private home, and an old oil mill. The Roubaud family’s mill, beside the water in Goudargues, operated until 1956, the year of the great freeze that struck the olive trees. Its machinery dated from the late 19th century.

Cast-iron frog in the foreground beside the pool of Goudargues’ covered washhouse
The cast-iron frog stands at the edge of the pool, beneath the washhouse roof. © VF

The church and the rooms of the former abbey

The two towers of Notre-Dame-et-Saint-Michel Church rise above the houses. Romanesque in origin, the former abbey church has been altered and restored, notably in the 19th century. On the square, café terraces spread in front of its façade, a short walk from the canal.

Façade and two towers of Notre-Dame-et-Saint-Michel Church above a lively square in Goudargues
Notre-Dame-et-Saint-Michel Church, seen from the square. © VF

Local tradition traces the monastery’s origins to Charlemagne and his kinsman Guilhem, the future Saint Guilhem. After a victory over the Saracens, Guilhem is said to have built an initial sanctuary on the hill of Saint-Michelet. The abbey’s story thus begins on the heights, before continuing near the springs of Goudargues.

In the early 12th century, the monks of Aniane and La Chaise-Dieu disputed possession of the abbey. The latter refused to leave despite a papal ruling in 1119. They stayed until 1121, risking excommunication.

Exhibition of paintings and sculptures beneath the stone vault of Goudargues’ chapter house
An exhibition in the chapter house of the former priory of Goudargues. © VF

Inside, the apse preserves the Romanesque part of the church, listed as a historic monument since 1939.

A large vaulted room also survives from the former priory. Known as the chapter house, it hosts exhibitions: paintings and sculptures are displayed beneath its long stone vault. This room has also been protected as a historic monument since 1939.

From the gardens to the banks of the Cèze

Away from the quays, gardens and vineyards border the village. The church’s two towers remain visible above the crops, with wooded hills beyond.

Notre-Dame-et-Saint-Michel Church in Goudargues rising above the vineyards
Goudargues and its former abbey church, seen from the vineyards. © VF

A path leaves the washhouse area, follows the gardens and reaches the Cèze at the Gambionne footbridge. From the bridge on the road to Pont-Saint-Esprit, the trees on both banks can be seen reflected in the water.

View of the Cèze and its wooded banks from the bridge on the road to Pont-Saint-Esprit in Goudargues
The wooded banks are reflected in the Cèze, seen from the bridge. © VF

Continue your getaway in the Cèze valley

In the same valley, La Roque-sur-Cèze and the Sautadet waterfalls extend the walk around the water, with rocks carved by the river at the foot of the hilltop village.

Further south, the old centre of Uzès offers another visit in the Gard, from the place aux Herbes to the Duché and the cathedral quarter.

Practical information

Visiting Goudargues

Markets
Wednesday mornings in the village centre, all year round. Evening markets are also held in summer.
Village festival
Around 15 August, with music, pétanque and a funfair. Dates and programme in the tourist office’s events calendar.
Chapter house
Exhibitions provide an opportunity to discover the vaulted room of the former priory. Opening depends on the programme.
Swimming in the Cèze
Pebble beach near the road to Pont-Saint-Esprit. Check swimming conditions and water quality with the tourist office.

Local information: visiting Goudargues · Wednesday market · village festival.

Extend your stay

Guest houses in the Cèze Gorges to extend your getaway

Staying in the valley makes it possible to discover Goudargues and the neighbouring villages at different times of day. The portal features independent guest houses and favours direct contact with their owners.

These properties listed on the Portal are within 25 km as the crow flies of the location featured in this getaway. Visit their websites to plan your stay.

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