Les Goudes, a fishing port at Marseille’s edge

A fishing port on the edge of Marseille

At Marseille’s southern edge, Les Goudes occupies a cove between the sea and the Marseilleveyre massif. A single road connects it to the rest of the city: from Pointe Rouge, it follows the coast through Montredon and La Madrague de Montredon, before reaching the harbour beneath the limestone slopes.

The city centre is far away, on the other side of the bay. The road continues to Callelongue, where it ends without crossing the Calanques massif. Getting to Les Goudes sometimes takes patience: this sole road access is often congested at weekends and in summer.

Les Goudes in the days of factories and cabanons

In the 19th century, fishermen were not the only people in Les Goudes. Relegated far from central Marseille, soda, lead and sulphur factories were established along this coast. Some of their walls were later reused to build cabanons and the Saint-Lucien chapel.

In 1875, a railway project proposed linking Le Prado to Les Goudes to serve the factories. The line would have stopped at Sainte-Anne, Château Borély and Montredon, but it was never built. It was the tramway that eventually brought this coast closer to central Marseille. Its terminus was established at La Madrague de Montredon in 1891, making Sunday outings to the cabanons easier.

The cabanons welcomed fishermen, factory workers and modestly paid employees who spent their days off by the water. These simple cottages offered a Sunday away from the city, fishing and sharing a meal with family or friends. Over the years, many were enlarged and converted into houses.

In recent years, Les Goudes has become fashionable. Its restaurants and terraces attract visitors well beyond the regulars from Marseille. The former fishing and working-class neighbourhood is now sought after for its waterside houses and proximity to the Calanques.

A coast defended by the military

The hills and headlands also served to defend Marseille’s bay. The small fort above Les Goudes dates from the Napoleonic era. Second World War defences added to this network, including a blockhouse south of the harbour.

These military structures are not, however, equipped for visits.

Maïre island opposite the rocky coast

Leaving the quays, limestone once again appears underfoot. Jagged rocks and small coves replace the village streets. The outline of Maïre island stands out. The island belongs to the Riou archipelago. The Passage des Croisettes separates it from Cap Croisette: it is only 70 metres wide at its narrowest point. Uninhabited Maïre is part of this group of protected islands that provide a home for many seabirds.

Coastal vegetation grows in shallow soil exposed to wind and sea spray. Areas protected by the National Park allow these plants to re-establish themselves.

Continuing to Callelongue

The road reaches Callelongue, the last coastal hamlet before the paths of the Calanques. From its small harbour, trails continue into the Marseilleveyre massif.

Les Goudes can also be reached by sea: in season, a boat shuttle links the Old Port with Pointe Rouge, where a connection continues to Les Goudes harbour.

For another side of Marseille, the lanes and stairways of Le Panier offer a walk through the old town. On the other side of the bay, the calanque of Niolon combines a small harbour with structures belonging to the Côte Bleue railway.