A living tradition in an iconic church in the heart of Arles
The Church of Notre-Dame-de-la-Major overlooks the Hauture hill, the highest point of the old town, located near the Roman Arena. Philippe Féret installed a Nativity scene for the first time in 1992, inaugurating a tradition that he has continued every year since. He meticulously arranges his "santons" (traditional figurines) and composes the scenes in the Saint-Véran chapel, beneath the statue of Saint Roch—a saint deeply venerated in Provence as a protector against the plague.
A Living and Poetic Nativity Scene
With the help of family and friends, Philippe creates a truly living work of art using traditional santons set within sumptuous decors inspired by Provençal landscapes. Hundreds of small figures bring Provençal folklore to life: shepherds leading their flocks, millers carrying heavy sacks of flour, peasants harvesting olives, washerwomen at the fountain, and gypsies camping around the fire... One's gaze constantly lingers on these countless details, revealing new stories with every visit.
When to visit the Nativity Scene?
The Nativity scene can be visited during the Christmas period and throughout the month of January, with free admission at the church entrance. Traditionally, it remains on display until Candlemas (La Chandeleur), celebrating the Presentation of Jesus at the Temple and marking the end of the Christmas cycle in the Catholic tradition.
Notre-Dame-de-la-Major, an Iconic Arles Church
While less famous than the Saint-Trophime Basilica, the Church of Notre-Dame-de-la-Major is nonetheless one of Arles' most venerable sanctuaries. Built in the 5th century on the remains of an ancient Roman temple, the current building dates primarily from the 12th century. Weakened by Allied bombing during World War II, the monument underwent extensive restoration in the 1980s. Today, it houses the headquarters of the Confrérie des Gardians, who celebrate their annual festival there every May 1st.
Provençal Traditions in Arles
If you are visiting Arles during the Christmas season, don't miss the International Santon Makers’ Fair, an essential annual exhibition since 1958, as well as the Museum of the Provençal Santon, open year-round. Provençal traditions are very much alive in Arles!
How to see the Nativity Scene at Notre-Dame-de-la-Major?
To confirm opening hours, we recommend a search on your preferred engine or visiting the Arles Tourist Office website.