Brantes, a hilltop village in the shadow of Ventoux

Facing the northern slopes of Ventoux

Brantes stands on a spur of the Bluye mountain, above the Toulourenc valley. Opposite, Ventoux shows its steepest side: long gullies cut through the wooded slopes towards the limestone ridge. From the village, the contrast in scale is striking, with houses clustered on their rocky outcrop below the mountain that fills the horizon.

The river separates the two mountains. Leaving the open views to enter Brantes, you find passages shaded by walls, steps and doorways built into the hillside.

The stone lanes of a fortified village

The calades, the village’s stone-paved lanes, call for a visit on foot. They pass beneath vaulted passages, follow the houses and divide around flights of steps. Openings offer views of Ventoux before the façades close in again. In the upper village, a few remains survive of the castle that once watched over the valley.

This fortress defended a border of the Comtat Venaissin, a territory ruled by the popes, facing the Dauphiné. In 1576, during the French Wars of Religion, the Protestant captain Ferrier left a garrison of fifty men here. After the castle was retaken, Brantes, Saint-Léger and Savoillans paid for its upkeep: it was to shelter their inhabitants in the event of another attack.

Saint-Sidoine Church

A square tower rises above the roofs along the lanes: the bell tower of Saint-Sidoine. The present church was built between 1682 and 1684, after the previous building was demolished because it had become too small for the whole parish.

A niche on the church façade holds a statue of Our Lady of Victories. Inside, the church preserves 19th-century wall paintings and trompe-l’œil decoration.

The White Penitents’ bookseller

The small Chapel of the White Penitents hosts exhibitions. It also offers an unexpected stop: the tourist office points out a “ghost bookseller”. Books await their readers, who leave their payment in a collection box. This arrangement, based on trust, is a good reason to step inside when the door is open.

The craftspeople of Brantes

The arrival of craftspeople helped restore and revive Brantes in the second half of the 20th century. Workshops specialise in pottery, faience and woodwork, among other crafts. Visits depend on opening days and whether the makers are there.

Véronique Dornier’s santons have made Brantes known far beyond the valley. These small figures depict the trades and characters of the Provençal Christmas crib, with one collection painted in shades of blue. Each clay piece is shaped, fired and then painted by hand. The maker has announced her retirement; details of visits to the workshop are given in the practical information.

Every other December, “Brantes dans les Étoiles” also brings visitors into village homes: residents welcome artists and craftspeople for a few days.

The old bridge over the Toulourenc

Below Brantes, the old stone bridge crosses the Toulourenc with a single arch. The descent from the village leads to the river and the trees along its banks. From the narrow bridge deck, you can see the riverbed opening out on either side. To admire the outline of the arch, you need to go down to the riverbanks.

Allow time and energy for the climb back to the village. This descent rounds off a visit to Brantes; routes that continue up Ventoux are mountain hikes.

Further along the valley and towards Ventoux

The Toulourenc valley continues towards Savoillans and Montbrun-les-Bains, in the Drôme Provençale. In the other direction, Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux leads towards the surroundings of Vaison-la-Romaine. The summit of Mont Ventoux offers another perspective on these mountains, best explored on a separate outing.