Getaway in Avignon
Barthelasse Island on foot and by bicycle
Text and photographs by Vincent Flachaire
Facing the Pont d’Avignon, the towpath runs beside the Rhône. Behind the poplars, Barthelasse’s narrow roads pass through orchards and market gardens.
Countryside in the middle of the Rhône
Between Avignon and Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, Barthelasse occupies land formed by river deposits between the Rhône’s two arms. The Petit Rhône flows beside the ramparts of the City of the Popes; the Grand Rhône separates the island from the Gard bank. Facing the city, market gardens and orchards are bordered by hedges and linked by narrow roads.
To the south, Île Piot has kept its name despite the gradual merging of the river islands. Closer to the bridges, it contains a substantial share of the homes and facilities, while farmland still occupies most of Barthelasse. Both islands belonged to Villeneuve-lès-Avignon until they became part of Avignon in 1856. Today, they form the Barthelasse-Piot district.
From wheat fields to orchards
In 1447, Jean Richard, known as “Barthelucius”, leased land on these islands from Saint-André Abbey. He sowed wheat and made his fortune. His nickname is the origin of the island’s name.
The soils enriched by river deposits now support cherry, pear and apple orchards, as well as market gardens. In spring, the island’s inland paths take you past the orchards in blossom. Hedges divide the fields; willows, poplars and reed beds grow along the Rhône’s banks.
The towpath facing Avignon
The towpath follows the Petit Rhône opposite the historic centre. The four arches of the Pont Saint-Bénézet, the Palace of the Popes and the Rocher des Doms rise above the river. The level path is suited to walking, running and cycling, beside lawns, poplars and reed beds.
Towing meant pulling boats from the bank to move them against the current. The Allées Antoine-Pinay, laid out in 2005 along the old towpath, retained the stone revetments that protect the riverbank.
Ferries take over from the bridge
After the flood of 1226 swept away part of the Pont Saint-Bénézet, travellers had to cross the Rhône by ferry for around ten years. Repeated collapses of the arches made the service a lasting necessity. The boats were attached to a cable stretched between the banks, known as the “traille”. When the bridge was irreparably damaged in the 17th century, two ferries provided the crossing to Villeneuve, each serving one arm of the Rhône.
Today’s shuttle connects Avignon to Barthelasse from the Quai de la Ligne, at the foot of the Rocher des Doms. During the short crossing, you see the arches from the river before landing beside the towpath. This free service operates according to seasonal timetables and navigation conditions.
Cycling to the Oiselay footbridge
By bicycle, the island’s narrow roads take you away from the banks, through orchards and past farmhouses. The terrain is flat, but some roads remain open to vehicles. The signposted ViaRhôna route alternates between greenways and roads shared with motor traffic. From the Pont Daladier, it heads towards the Parc des Libertés, then the Oiselay footbridge. This 200-metre bridge crosses the Rhône near the Sauveterre dam and lets you continue towards Sorgues and Caderousse. From Oiselay Island, routes along small roads also lead to Châteauneuf-du-Pape to explore the village, its castle and its wines.
An island exposed to floods
Barthelasse gradually formed as smaller islands merged and river deposits accumulated. Flood risk limits construction and helps preserve the farmland. In December 2003, a hundred-year flood cut off Île Piot and Barthelasse; water levels approaching two metres were recorded in several areas.
Avignon through Bonnart’s eyes
In 1700, Robert Bonnart painted Avignon from the right bank of the Rhône. His view, held at the Musée Calvet, shows the city behind its ramparts, the already ruined bridge and a few boats on the river. Gardens belonging to religious institutions still occupied some of the space within the walls.
Bonnart heightened some monuments to distinguish them from the houses. His painting offers a comparison between the city’s former skyline and today’s view, rather than an exact architectural record.
Today, the towpath’s benches and lawns offer places to stop and take in this panorama. On the Rhône, the shuttle now provides the crossing once made by ferries.
Exploring both banks
Back in Avignon after the shuttle crossing, the climb to the Rocher des Doms gardens gives a view of the island from above. On the opposite bank, Villeneuve-lès-Avignon offers further discoveries along the Rhône, with the Tour Philippe-le-Bel and Fort Saint-André. To travel from Avignon to Villeneuve, the Daladier and Royaume bridges cross the two river arms via Île Piot.
Practical information
Exploring Barthelasse
- Suggested time
- Allow one to two hours for a leisurely walk along the towpath with photography stops, excluding any wait for the shuttle. For a bicycle outing, allow time for your chosen route, especially if you continue to the Oiselay footbridge.
- Access and shuttle
- From Avignon, the Pont Daladier provides access to the island on foot, by bicycle or by car. The free shuttle leaves from the Quai de la Ligne, near the Pont Saint-Bénézet. Check its timetable and operating conditions before setting off; wind and floods can interrupt the service.
- Walking and running
- The towpath offers flat ground for walking or running opposite Avignon. The promenade is shared with cyclists. Keep to public paths and respect the crops.
- Cycling and the ViaRhôna
- The ViaRhôna runs through Barthelasse and its surroundings for around 8 km, including a greenway section of approximately 4 km, separate from motor traffic. Check the ViaRhôna route towards Avignon to plan your outing.
- Seasons and weather
- Visit in spring to see the orchards in blossom. In summer, choose the morning or late afternoon. Bring water and sun protection. In strong mistral winds or during floods, observe closures and local instructions.
To plan your visit: Avignon tourist office.
Prolonger le séjour
Chambres d’hôtes autour d’Avignon pour prolonger l’escapade
Pour découvrir la Barthelasse et le centre historique, vous pouvez comparer les maisons d’hôtes situées autour d’Avignon, consulter leurs services et contacter directement leurs propriétaires.
Ces établissements du Portail se trouvent dans un rayon de 25 km à vol d’oiseau du lieu de cette Escapade. Découvrez leur site pour préparer votre séjour.
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