A getaway in the Salon region
Salon-de-Provence, from the Château de l’Empéri to the fountains
Text and photographs by Vincent Flachaire
The towers of the Château de l’Empéri rise above Salon-de-Provence’s old town. From the castle courtyards to the town gates, the walk takes in the squares and streets where Nostradamus lived.
L’Empéri, the castle of the Archbishops of Arles
The castle stands on the Puech rock above the houses. Its walls, towers and fortified entrance recall the time when the Archbishops of Arles were also the lords of Salon. The name Empéri refers to the overlordship of the Holy Roman Emperors over this territory.
Beyond the forecourt, the courtyards bring you closer to the façades and galleries. The upper-storey windows and arcades show that this fortress was also a residence, enlarged and altered over the centuries.
Every summer, the castle courtyard also hosts concerts by SALON, the international chamber music festival founded in 1993.
The terrace after the 1909 earthquake
The north terrace looks out over the roofs of the old town. It owes its existence to a loss: a tower weakened by the 1909 earthquake was demolished with explosives. The cleared space became this viewpoint over the houses and bell towers.
To reach the terrace, you cross the courtyards and the medicinal herb garden. Created in 2003, the garden displays plants associated with Nostradamus’s recipes. It is a modern creation, rather than the physician’s original garden.
The collections of the Musée de l’Empéri
Inside, the Musée de l’Empéri presents the history of the French armies through the collections assembled by Raoul and Jean Brunon. Uniforms, weapons, equipment and soldiers’ memorabilia trace changes from the Ancien Régime to the First World War.
See the practical information below for arrangements for visiting the collections.
Nostradamus in Salon
Nostradamus was born in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence in 1503. He settled in Salon in 1547, started a new family and worked on his publications, including the Prophecies. His house, now a museum, stands in the streets near the castle. In 1564, Charles IX and Catherine de’ Medici visited Salon during the royal court’s journey through France.
The old gates and the Fontaine Moussue
The Bourg-Neuf gate preserves a passage through the former town walls. Further on, the Clock Tower rises above another entrance, its dial visible over the houses at the end of the street. These passages lead into the old town from the broad streets that border it.
On Place Crousillat, café terraces surround the Fontaine Moussue. Two basins, one above the other, lie beneath the vegetation. Limestone deposits from the water and growing moss have gradually changed its appearance, forming the rounded mass that overhangs the lower basin.
Continuing through Salon’s streets
With its fountain squares, café terraces and shopping streets, Salon’s old town evokes a smaller Aix-en-Provence, more modest and less monumental. Leave time to wander around Place Crousillat and return towards the Clock Tower, with the castle towers rising above the roofs.
Practical information
Visiting the castle and Salon’s old town
- Suggested duration
- Allow one and a half to two hours for the castle, its outdoor areas and the old town, excluding the museum collections.
- Castle and museums
- The courtyards, garden and terrace are free to enter during castle opening hours. Check the current visiting arrangements for the Château de l’Empéri and the Maison Nostradamus.
- Access and parking
- Walk to the centre from the signposted car parks around the old town. The climb up the Puech and the entrances to the courtyards include slopes and thresholds.
- Annual events
- The transhumance festival usually brings flocks and celebrations into the town centre in early May. In summer, L’Été au château and the chamber music festival offer concerts and performances. In late August, DJs perform on Place de l’Hôtel de Ville for Du Son au Balcon. Check the SALON festival programme and the town events calendar for dates and bookings.
- What to bring
- Comfortable shoes, water and sun protection for the forecourt and terraces. Indoor visits and events have their own opening times.
To plan your visit: Salon-de-Provence tourist office.
Extend your stay
Guest houses in the Aix-en-Provence area
These properties listed on the Portal are within 25 km as the crow flies of the location featured in this getaway. Visit their websites to plan your stay.
Le Mas de l'Amandier
Charming Bed and breakfast and holiday rental
St Saturnin lès Avignon
Visit website
L'Oréliane
Charming Bed and breakfast
Châteauneuf de Gadagne
Visit website
La Bastide des Amouriers
Charming bed and breakfast and Gite
Caumont-sur-Durance
Visit website
Fontaine des Magnarelles
Charming Bed and breakfast
Althen des Paluds
Visit website
Four de Cony
Charming bed and breakfast
Saumane de Vaucluse
Visit website
La Bergerie du Luberon
Charming holiday home
Les Taillades
Visit website
Le Pavillon du Lantana
Holiday home
Les Taillades
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